Landscape & Outdoor Lighting Installation in South Florida

Entry systems covering a front elevation and walkway typically run $2,500 to $5,000 installed. Full-property designs taking in the facade, palms, paths, pool area and dock generally land between $6,000 and $20,000+ depending on fixture count and trenching. LED fixtures draw so little power that even large systems cost a few dollars a month to run.

Almost all modern landscape lighting runs on 12 to 15 volt low voltage systems fed by a transformer, which is why a low voltage contractor is the right trade for it. The licensing split is worth understanding and we covered it in low voltage vs. electrical contractor. Low voltage is safer around irrigation and pets, cheaper to run, and does not require the conduit burial depths 120V lighting does.

Substantially, if the two are planned together. Infrared night vision gives you a grey image with no clothing colour and no vehicle colour; the same camera over an evenly lit approach records usable colour detail. What ruins footage is a bright fixture inside the frame. The camera meters for it and everything else becomes a silhouette. So the rule we work to is light the approach, never the lens: fixtures behind or beside the camera, aimed the same direction it is looking, at a level that lifts the scene rather than blasting it.

Yes. We integrate outdoor lighting into Lutron and smart home scenes (Entertain, Every Night, Away) and coordinate fixture placement with camera angles so approaches are lit for identification instead of backlit.

Quality brass fixtures with sealed LED sources routinely run 10 to 15 years here. Corroded sockets, flickering runs and dead zones are the failures you see around the neighborhood, and they are almost always big-box aluminum fixtures and unsealed splices, not the concept itself.

Yes. The usual causes are a short list: a corroded splice where a fixture was added without a proper gel connector, a run that was never sized for its length so the far end dims and then dies, a transformer at capacity, or a wire cut by a trencher or an edger. We test the runs, find the actual fault instead of replacing the visible fixture, and tell you honestly if the buried wire underneath is past saving before you spend money extending it.

Usually, yes. We test the existing transformer capacity and runs, replace what has corroded, and extend the system properly. If the wiring underneath is unsalvageable we will tell you before you spend money extending it.